Finnish berry wines gain ground

FINNISH CUISINE often gets dismissed by culinary pundits as bland and lacking in variety. There are, however, some truly exceptional ingredients and products that are virtually exclusive to the region. Berry wines are one of them.

Before you turn a face at the thought of that industrially produced, sickly-sweet stuff you consumed as a teenager, think again. Following changes in regulations concerning the production of local wines in 1995, Finland has been experiencing a berry wine renaissance. The quality and complexity of some of these “country wines” has been attracting international attention and it should not be too long before the wine snobs of the world discover the stuff and all noses point in the direction of Finland, so to speak.

The wines themselves are made from ingredients such as gooseberry, rowanberry and crowberry, to mention just of few of the exotic fruits used. Although you might not dare to offer bog whortleberry wine to your companion on a first date, don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.

The small wineries are located throughout the country with the highest concentration being in the south-east region. Many of these wineries are open to the public for tours and tastings. Muuruvesi wine information centre near Juankoski is one such establishment and is also an education and training centre. In fact, it is the only research institute in Europe that focuses on berry and fruit based alcohol products. Wines that have been internationally awarded are sold in the shop on the premises.

Currently, 15,000 litres of wine are produced at the centre annually with production capacity for even more should the market demand it. The wines are available in Alko shops throughout the country but have to be specially ordered in most cases. The most popular wine the centre makes, according to wine tavern operator Tiina Tiilikainen is Kallavesj’ Piknik. This rosé wine is made of white and black currant berries and is medium sweet, soft and delightfully fresh. Another popular choice is Kallavesj’ sparkling wine, made from green currant. This slightly fruity, bright golden elixir could rightfully be called Finland’s answer to champagne.

Surprisingly, the wines are not yet sold outside of Finland. It seems that such unique beverages could easily become a hallmark of the country and find international markets. The high-quality controls and industry standard are relatively new, so that might explain somewhat why the products have yet to be developed for export.

While it may be a while before global warming makes it possible to grow grapes in the Nordic region, berry wines are here now and better than ever!

Robin DeWan
HELSINKI TIMES